1490’s Under Gown Mock-up v2
This Mock Up v2 of my 1490’s Gamurra pattern was directly modified from the v1 Mock-Up that I had previously made out of the pale blue linen with embroidered flowers. To start with, I laid my pattern peices out from the v1 Mock Up and went over where I needed to take in the pattern from v1. The v1 mock-up had been about 5 inches too big in the bodice and I was in the process of losing weight. With this in mind, I simply took the pattern in from the center front, center back, and both side seams by folding the pattern in on a straigh line parallel to the old edges of the pattern pieces. This took in about 1.5 inches on center front, 1.5 inches on center back, and about .75 inches on each side edge for a total reduction of 6 inches.
I then proceeded with roughly the same construction techniques as I had on the v1 Mock-Up. I added boning channels between 2 layers of duck for the front and back bodice pieces, and I used heavy-duty cable ties as my boning. I then laminated those two pieces of duck with the boning channels between the black linen lining and the third layer of duck. I then wrapped my fashion fabric — a black embroidered faux suede (that I had 8 yards of laying around) with abstract pink and purple embroidery– around those pieces and hand sewed them to the lining on the inside.
I laminated only 2 layers of duck together for the straps, but machine stitched them in parallel rows from the front to the back to help stiffen the straps. I then added the lining and then wrapped the fashion fabric around these and hand sewed it down.
The straps were then whip stitched to the bodice front and back in order to make a single bodice piece.
Lacing loops were added using cotton Perl thread. I first set a loop, then used a blanket stitch over that loop in order to thicken and strengthen my lacing loops.
For the skirt, I used a center front, right front, left front, center back, right back, left back, and two walking gores at each side. The pieces were machine flat-felled. I then used single-fold bias tape to finish the skirt’s top edge. Once the skirt was one piece and the top edge was finished, I located the center front, set a box pleat with quilting clamps, and then began to knife pleat from the center box pleat back to the center back on each side. After this, I machine sewed the pleats down.
Once the pleats were machine stitched down, I hand whip stitched the bodice to the skirt. At this point, I was able to don my 1490’s camica and try the fit of Mock-Up v2. The fit on v2 was much better. It was snug but not TIGHT, it was supportive while still being quite comfortable. I did still have a few small adjustments to make. With my initial folding, I had the front and back sides not quite lining up at the same height and the bodice needed to be about half an inch longer in the front to be 100% comfortable. However, this Mock-Up v2 was definitely a wearable mock-up. I just needed to finish the hem and hem stiffening with the doppia.
The doppia is the stiffening in the hem. I used 3 layers of felt in progressively narrower widths that I machine quilted together into one LONG strip. I then added this at my hem when I bound the bottom of the hem. I also then machine stitched the top edge of the doppia to the skirt so it was not hanging loose.
This was problematic for a couple of reasons. First and foremost, the skirt–with walking gores– was not a giant rectangle and have a curve to it. The doppia was straight and did not take this into account. In the final version for 12th Night, I will need to shape the doppia at the gore to get it to lay flat. Second, the top line of machine stitching was ugly. In the final version for 12th Night, I will have a trim at the bottom of my hem that will help disguise the stitching securing the doppia.
However, the doppia and walking gores proved to be an excellent improvement over previous attempts at this style of dress. I was able to wear this mock-up to the first day of Atenveldt’s 101st Coronation and not trip over my hem a single time.
I’m so glad you saw a real difference in the hem safety! The doppia can be a right royal pain but it helps so much!