Titian – 1511 – The Miracle of the Jealous Husband

by | Sep 26, 2022 | 1510s, Outer Menswear | 0 comments

This is Titian’s 1511 fresco The Miracle of the Jealous Husband.  The close-up to the left shows the main male figure–a husband– stabbing a woman– assumed to be his wife.  The garment he wears is a counterchanged red and white.  It is belted at the waist.  The sleeves of the red and white layer are lined in a solid gray black and are over tighter sleeves of grayish brown.  The legs of the husband are clothed in tight pants of grayish brown as well.

In the garment to be recreated, the fashion fabrics will be cream and black cotton velveteen.  The lining will be cream as well but of a different washable fabric.  The undersleeves will be based on a different painting but will be accurate to the time and place being re-created.  Those will be red-on-red brocade.  This will be worn over a white linen shirt and pants.  The linen shirt and pants are to be made by someone else.

This particular garment will be for a larger and taller than average man.  Mistress Katrine de Saint Brieuc and Vittoria di Carduci drove the process of patterning this garment.  We began by taking measurements and making some basic style choices.  It was decided that the skirt would be a circle skirt instead of a rectangle that was pleated to the bodice piece.  We determined that the garment would be loose enough to drop over the head of the wearer and be easily removed in the same manner.

With these choices in mind, it was decided that the counterchange between skirt and bodice pieces would have the width of the bodice strips be the width of the gores of the circle skirt at the attachment point.  We added the required amount of ease and then figured out how long the skirt would be and at what point our counterchange would be on the skirt. We decided there would be 24 panels– or 12 of each color — going around the body.

The body panels would be straight rectangular strips of the same finished width as each of the skirt gores finished width at the top of the skirt so that a counterchange can be had at the waist seam.

It was decided that the sleeves would be 8 widths apiece — 4 of each color at each counterchange.  The width of the top of the gores was based on the armscye size and the bottom of the gores was based on the sized opening that was desired at the wrist.  Total length was based on the length of the arm taken when the arm was bent.  No extra length was added as the desired undersleeves will need to show.  The undersleeves that will go with this garment will not be based on this painting but will be appropriate for the time and place being re-created.

 

Skirt pattern for individual pieces for the counterchange on the top row and the lining on the bottom row.
Sleeve pattern for individual pieces for the counterchange on the top row and the lining on the bottom row.